If you’ve seen AHA on a skincare label and wondered what it actually does, you’re not alone. Alpha Hydroxy Acids are one of the most well-researched categories of skincare ingredients — and one of the most misunderstood.
What are AHAs?
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are a group of water-soluble acids derived from natural sources. The most common in skincare are glycolic acid (from sugar cane) and lactic acid (originally derived from milk, now typically synthesised). They work by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, allowing them to shed more easily — a process called chemical exfoliation.
Why lactic acid specifically?
REAL CARE uses 10% lactic acid. Compared to glycolic acid, lactic acid has a larger molecular size, which means it penetrates the skin more slowly and is generally considered gentler — making it a better choice for sensitive or acne-prone skin (Tang et al., 2018, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology). It also has mild humectant properties, meaning it helps the skin retain moisture while exfoliating.
What does it do for acne-prone skin?
Acne-prone skin tends to have a higher rate of dead skin cell buildup, which can clog pores and contribute to breakouts. Regular use of a low-concentration AHA helps to:
- Support the natural shedding of dead skin cells
- Reduce the appearance of post-acne marks over time
- Improve skin texture and tone with consistent use
- Support a more balanced skin surface
A clinical review published in Dermatologic Surgery found that regular use of AHA exfoliants at concentrations of 5–12% showed measurable improvements in skin texture and acne-related hyperpigmentation over 12 weeks (Sharad, 2013).
How to use it safely
AHAs increase photosensitivity, meaning your skin becomes more vulnerable to UV damage. This is why REAL CARE is designed for evening use only — and why wearing broad-spectrum SPF the following morning is essential, not optional.
If you’re new to AHAs, start with 1–2 times per week and build up gradually as your skin adjusts.
Sources: Tang et al. (2018), Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Sharad (2013), Dermatologic Surgery.
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